Why I initially hated the smokies
Even though I had heard stories of the beauty of the smokies they started to seem more burdensome than anything else. Almost all thru hikers knew that before entering the smokies we would have to obtain AT thru-hiker backcountry permits in order to camp. These permits cost $20 and last 7 days. Obtaining a permit was mildly annoying (only because I was trying to purchase mine on a public computer with a half functioning monitor), and I would've done it in advance, but my entrance date was tentative and I didn't want to risk having to purchase a second permit. My backcountry permit was accompanied by a long list of park rules.
In no particular order:
Leave no trace (this is standard)
No outside animals
No camping outside of shelters
No fires in most shelters
+ more!
I never expected camping to have so many rules. Paying to camp and then being so regulated was confusing to me. I mean, it's a National Park! Shouldn't I just be allowed to be in the wilderness/ camp wherever I want?! I begrudgingly began my hike in anyway.
I still hated the smokies
The day of our GSM entrance started out really well. It was beautiful and sunny as we left our campsite on Fontana Lake.
We hiked across Fontana Dam, and into the southern entrance of the park. I knew I had a ton of climbing in my future, but I was unprepared for what laid ahead.
Followed by more climbing. Then a tiny break, but then more climbing. I had resupplied at Fontana Dam, and my legs were feeling the extra seven pounds of food I was carrying. In a desperate attempt to lighten my pack, I "cameled" all of my water. Two pounds down, but legs were still screaming. I took a break midway through our nine plus mile ascent. I looked around and saw dead trees and leaves everywhere. I was underwhelmed. Six more miles into my journey I was still feeling underwhelmed, and totally exhausted. Being forced to stay in shelters made mileage in the smokies hard. Shelters were 3-5 miles apart, but that meant doing 9/10 mile days or 15/17 mile days on tougher terrain/ at higher elevation than we're used to. Naturally we chose 15/17, and I was left feeling so tired every night.
Then something magical happened
Towards the end of day two I rounded a corner, and was totally surprised.
I had entered beautiful pine forest! I felt like I was in the Pacific north west, and I couldn't be any happier. That coupled with a few balds, hiking along ridges of mountains, and the most amazing views made me realize why everyone speaks so highly of the smokies.
Half way
Half way into the smokies we all decided to head to Gatlinburg for the day. We had a little under 11 miles into town, and we were all ready to get there. We woke up early and had small breakfasts while on the move. I did a bad job resupplying, and was starving/ running low on snacks. I was starting to get hangry but we entered a gap and trail magic appeared!
It couldn't have come at a better time! The two lovely older ladies who were doing trail magic had set up a sandwich station, drinks, and snacks and I couldn't have been happier.
I got audited!!
After trail magic I was feeling full and happy, and set off on a easy 3 miles to Newfound gap/ our access road for Gatlinburg. I saw a man hiking towards me, and he turned out to be a park ranger. He asked for my backcountry permit, and I looked at him and said "I didn't think this would actually happen". He went from looking stern to chuckling, we parted ways, and I left feeling happy that I had purchased a permit.
Gatlinburg
Gatlinburg is definitely one of my least favorite cities. It was filled with tourists and tourist attractions. I like to describe it as the Myrtle Beach of Tennessee, and I have nothing more to say about it.
Back to the smokies
So much weather
On my last day in the smokies I really felt like I got to experience all four seasons in a 9 hour period. It had thunderstormed the previous night, and had been freezing. When I started hiking I realized that it had literally been freezing, and was snowing!
I was so happy, until it started raining and the AT turned into a river.
About two hours later the sun came out, it was around seventy degrees, and it was glorious.
All downhill from here
But really. Our final descent out of the smokies was as steep downhill as it had been on our first climb uphill. I take pride in my downhill hiking ability. Most people complain about it because it hurts their knees, and on my last day I understood why. Double digit mileage on steep downhills was not fun.
All in all I loved the Great Smoky Mountains. They're majestic, and there was so much I wanted to see that I didn't have time for. I'm already looking forward to making a trip back post thru hike!
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